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A6 Electrical / Electronic Systems — practice test

A6 is the Electrical/Electronic Systems test, and it is the one that humbles guys with fifteen years in the bay. It is not a parts-swapping test - it is a diagnostic-reasoning test built around Ohm's law, voltage drop, and reading a wiring diagram cold. Techs fail it because shop habits (grab the test light, ohm the cable, replace the battery) are exactly the wrong answers on paper, and because the Technician A / Technician B format punishes anyone who reads fast.

Studying for A6 (Electrical / Electronic Systems)? Overhaul Prep has 122 verified A6 questions written to the current task list — in the same formats the real exam uses (direct, Technician A/B, EXCEPT and most-likely-cause). Every answer comes with a written explanation, so you learn why instead of memorising a letter.

122A6 questions
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What's on the A6 test

Roughly 50 scored questions plus about 10 unscored pretest items in 75 minutes. Task areas are General Electrical System Diagnosis, Battery Diagnosis and Service, Starting System, Charging System, Lighting Systems, Instrument Cluster and Driver Information Systems, and Body Electrical Systems including accessories and SRS. The weight is lopsided: general electrical diagnosis is the single biggest block, roughly a quarter of the test, and body electrical is the next chunk. Battery, starting, and charging together make up close to another third. Own circuit fundamentals and voltage drop and you own most of this exam.

High-yield A6 topics

The material that shows up year after year. If you're short on time, start here.

  • Voltage drop testing under load. Know the limits cold: about 0.1V per wire or connection, roughly 0.2V across a switch or a ground path, about 0.5V total on the insulated side of the starter circuit. The whole test hinges on understanding that a bad connection only reveals itself when current is flowing - an unloaded circuit reads perfect right up until it fails.
  • Series and parallel circuit math. They will hand you a diagram with values and make you compute. Adding resistance in parallel lowers total resistance and raises total current; adding it in series drops current and shifts the drops. Voltage drops in series add up to source voltage, and an open reads full source voltage across the break.
  • Battery state of charge and testing. Open-circuit voltage: 12.6V is 100%, 12.4V is 75%, 12.2V is 50%, 12.0V is 25%. Remove surface charge before reading. Load test at half the CCA rating for 15 seconds and it must hold above 9.6V at 70F. Hydrometer: 1.265 corrected, and more than 0.050 variation between cells condemns it.
  • Parasitic draw. Normal is roughly 20-50 mA once modules go to sleep, and sleep can take 30-45 minutes. Keep the vehicle asleep while testing, use a low-current clamp or an ammeter in series without breaking the connection, and know how to halve the fuse box to isolate the offending circuit.
  • Starter and charging diagnosis by the numbers. Slow crank with high current draw points at mechanical drag or a shorted armature; slow crank with low current points at high resistance in cables or connections. Cranking voltage should stay above 9.6V. On the charging side, know AC ripple from a failed diode (over about 0.5V AC, or a scope pattern with a missing hump) and that output should land within about 10% of rated.
  • CAN bus basics. High-speed CAN runs 500 kbps on a twisted pair with two 120 ohm terminators, so it reads about 60 ohms across pins 6 and 14 with the key off. CAN-H idles near 2.5V and pulls up toward 3.5V; CAN-L idles near 2.5V and pulls down toward 1.5V. A 120 ohm reading means an open terminator or a broken bus segment. U-codes usually mean lost communication, not a bad module.

Where techs lose points on A6

Good technicians miss these — not from lack of skill, but because the question is built to catch them.

  • Ohming a cable instead of loading it. A DMM reads 0.0 ohms on a battery cable that is 90 percent corroded internally, because the meter pushes microamps through it. The look-alike answer is always 'check the cable for resistance with an ohmmeter.' The right answer is a voltage drop test with the circuit operating.
  • Confusing an open with a short. A short to ground blows fuses. An open or high resistance gives you dim, slow, or dead - it does not blow a fuse. And voltage present at a dead component does not mean the feed is good; it usually means the ground is open, because the meter sees source voltage right across the break.
  • The test light. It is the shop reflex and the wrong answer around modules, airbags, and low-current circuits, because it draws real current and can cook a driver. Never put an ohmmeter across an airbag squib either - that alone can deploy it. Also remember a 10 megohm DMM reads phantom voltage on an open circuit and will send you chasing a ghost.
  • Feedback faults. Brake lights that flicker the taillights, or a turn signal that lights the marker lamp, is almost always a bad shared ground feeding backward through another bulb filament - not a bad switch and not a bad bulb. Same logic with LED conversions and hyper-flash: that is reduced load on the flasher, not a wiring fault.

A study plan that works for A6

Roughly two weeks of real preparation, in the order that actually builds on itself.

  1. Days 1-4: Ohm's law and circuit math until it is reflex. Work series, parallel, and series-parallel problems with real numbers. Then drill voltage drop limits (0.1V wire, 0.2V switch or ground, 0.5V starter feed) and read actual OEM wiring diagrams - trace power from fuse to load to ground, out loud, on ten different circuits.
  2. Days 5-8: Battery, starting, charging. Memorize the SOC voltage table and the half-CCA load test spec. Work the high-current-slow-crank versus low-current-slow-crank logic until you can explain it to somebody else. Add diode ripple, computer-controlled charging (PWM and LIN field control), and starter circuit voltage drop.
  3. Days 9-11: Lighting, clusters, body electrical, networks. Cover ground faults and feedback, LED versus incandescent load, bulb handling, parasitic draw procedure, CAN 60/120 ohm terminator math, and U-code interpretation. Do not skip SRS safety rules - they are free points.
  4. Days 12-14: Timed practice questions only, in Technician A / Technician B format. Read every statement as a standalone true/false before you pick. For each miss, write one sentence on why the wrong answer looked right - that page is what you review the morning of the test.

Sample A6 questions

Straight from the bank — answers highlighted, with the explanation underneath.

A simple series circuit is supplied by a 12-volt source and contains a single resistor of 3 ohms. Using Ohm's law, how much current flows in the circuit?

  1. 4 amperes
  2. 36 amperes
  3. 0.25 ampere
  4. 15 amperes
WhyOhm's law states I = E / R, so 12 V divided by 3 ohms equals 4 amperes. The 36-ampere distractor comes from multiplying voltage by resistance (E x R) instead of dividing, a common error.

Two technicians are discussing a high-speed CAN bus. Technician A says the bus uses two wires, CAN High and CAN Low, that carry opposite (differential) voltage signals. Technician B says a 120-ohm terminating resistor at each end of the bus results in about 60 ohms measured across the two data wires with the network off. Who is correct?

  1. Technician A only
  2. Technician B only
  3. Both Technicians A and B
  4. Neither Technician
WhyHigh-speed CAN uses differential signaling on CAN-H and CAN-L, and the two 120-ohm terminating resistors are electrically in parallel, measuring about 60 ohms across the bus. Both statements are correct.

An engine will not crank and the starter solenoid does not click. The battery is fully charged and the headlights stay bright when the key is held in START. Which is the MOST likely cause?

  1. A shorted starter armature
  2. A discharged battery
  3. An open in the starter control circuit (neutral safety switch, starter relay, or ignition switch)
  4. High resistance in the positive battery cable
WhyBright, steady lights with no solenoid click show the battery/power side is fine but the control circuit is not energizing the solenoid. A shorted armature, dead battery, or high-resistance cable would dim the lights or produce a click.

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